His name was Pepe and he was from Badajoz. She came to Fort William sixteen years ago, fleeing a divorce, with the intention of staying there for a few months. He found a Galician woman there, and never returned.
The 8:34 bus was full of hikers. At least, of people dressed as hikers. No wonder. From Crianlarich to Glencoe there is only one village, Tyndrum, three or four settlements, and mountains.
I had asked Wendy if she could have breakfast at seven-thirty instead of eight. You have to take the bus, she said. Wendy and Philip are the owners of the Glenardran House, the B&B where I will stay two more nights in Crianlarich.
In Crianlarich the train also stays longer than necessary, about 6 minutes. Crianlarich has train station and bus stop, as I told you. It is a good starting point to the north, towards the Highlands, and a good point of return to the south, towards the Lowlands. Or you can change lanes and head west to Oban.
I met Greg, who I don’t remember his name, walking away with his three companions, when I was going to breakfast. He was the tenant of bothy next door. He had done the West Highland Way last week by bike and this one he did on foot, in just five days.
Every hostel worthy of admiration must have its red hair working in it. In Rowardennan Lodge, he serves food. And for every dish that yesterday he served to the group of four women who became the real queens of the party, he took a standing ovation and the chef a few congratulations.
There were three busy tables having breakfast early, two couples and me. Mine, next to the windows. I was absent watching as it rained when he brought me the scrambled eggs. It’s raining, he told me. She grabbed a chair, and began to tell me that they opened a few months ago, that it was a very warm March and April, that she had done the entire West Highland Way a couple of times …
On Saturday mornings, Glasgow sleeps. Waiting for the 8:31 train we were 5 people, three of them with backpacks. On the 8:20 train, which I let go so as not to sprint, three more boarded. The train left and arrived on time, and in Milngavie we all looked like we were starting the West Highland Way.